Beaded shoe welting



June 18, 1957 w. c. VIZARD BEADED SHOE WELTING Filed Feb. 5, 1955 34 INVENTOR. /l/////dm C l l'zard BY 2M ewm Afro/FIVE) United States Patent ce BEADED SHOE WELTING William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor to Barbour Weltmg Company, Brockton, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application February 3, 1955, Serial No. 485,989

3 Claims. (CI. 36-78) This invention relates to beaded shoe welting and particularly to a shoe welting having a double head.

The invention has for a principal object to provide a novel and improved beaded shoe welting which may be simply and economically manufactured from a unitary grain leather or other fillet, and to a novel method of making the same.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved beaded shoe welting which is particularly adapted to prevent moisture from seeping into the shoes in which it is incorporated and of a double beaded construction which lends itself to the creation of a new style feature, thus greatly enhancing the appearance of the shoes. I

With these general objects in view and such others as may hereinafter appear, the present invention consists in the novel and improved beaded welting and method of making the same hereinafter described and particularly defined in the claims at the end of this specification.

In the drawings illustrating the present invention:

Fig. l is a perspective view of a substantially rectangular grain leather fillet preparatory to being cut in accordance with the cutting operation;

Figs. 2-5 are perspective views illustrating the steps in the cutting operation preparatory to the formation of the completed welting of Fig. 7;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view illustrating the folding operation preparatory to the formation of the completed welting of Fig. 7;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the completed welting; and

Fig. 8 is a perspective view partially in section of the completed welting of Fig. 7 incorporated in a shoe prior to attachment thereto of the shoe outsole.

In general the present invention comprises a novel and improved shoe welting and method of making the same. In accordance with the preferred method of making the present welting shown in Fig. 7, a substantially rectangular grain leather fillet, as illustrated in Fig. l, is subjected to the successive cutting operations illustrated in Figs. 2-5 and then to the folding operation illustrated in Fig. 6. As illustrated in Fig. 7, the completed welting is provided with a grain surfaced welt extension along one of its marginal edges, an inseam flange along its opposed marginal edge and a double bead upstanding from the top surface thereof, preferably located substantially midway between the welt extension and the inseam flange. Provision is made for supporting and maintaining the beads in a substantially perpendicular position with relation to the welt extension and to minimize any tendency of the beads to be deflected outwardly in order that the edge of the inner bead may adhere closely to the upper of the shoe to which the welting is attached during the life of the shoe. As best shown in Fig. 8, the present novel and improved welting gives the shoe in which it is incorporated a novel and distinctive appearance and at the same time efficiently weathenproofs the shoe for use under varying weather conditions.

2,795,869 Patented June 18, 1957 Referring now to the drawings and particularly to Figs. l-5, 10 represents a substantially rectangular grain leather fillet having a grain surface 12 and flesh surface 14. The first step in the cutting operation is to make an incision commencing at point 16 along a line spaced inwardly from and parallel to marginal edges 18, 20 of fillet 10, as illustrated in Fig. 2. The incision is extended upwardlyto point 24 along a line, preferably spaced .040" below and extending parallel to grain surface 12, thence turning and extending parallel to said grain surface to point 26. The first step in the cutting operation separates fillet 10 into upper and lower sections 27, 29 which may be cut in accordance with the steps in the cutting'operation "to be described forming a welt extension 28, a bead core 30, a grain face cover 32 and inseam flange 34. The grain surfaced cover 32 and core 30 form the outer bead 82 of the double beaded welting shown in Fig. 8. The next step in the cutting operation is to make an incision substantially triangular in section, indicated generally at 35, commencing in the flesh surface 14 adjacent point 16, as illustrated in Fig. 3. In order to make such triangular incision the inseam flange 34 is bent downwardly to expose flesh surface 36 to permit the incision to be made. The triangular incision 35 forms a base for the bead core 30 and a hinging point upon which bead core 30 may be folded in accordance with the steps in the folding operation illustrated in Fig. 6. The next step in the cutting operation contemplates an incision commencing in the flesh surface 14 adjacent to and spaced from the marginal edge 18 at point 40 and extending upwardly in a gradual arc to point 42, preferably spaced about .050" upwardly from flesh surface 14. This step in the cutting operation forms the inseam cover flap 46 arranged to be folded upon and secured to the inseam flange 34, as will be hereinafter described in the folding operation preparatory to forming the completed welting of Fig. 7, and also forming the member 50 which is to form the second bead of the double beaded welting shown in Fig. 8. At this stage in the cutting operation a stitching groove 52 for receiving the inseam stitches may be cut in the flesh surface 14, as shown. The stitching groove 52 may and preferably will be of the type ordinarily utilized in the manufacture of shoe welting, comprising a narrow groove running parallel to the maginal edges of the fillet 10 and which ordinarily is covered by the outsole of the shoe. As best shown in Fig. 5, marginal edge 18 is pinked forming the top 54 of the second bead 50 of the double beaded welting.

From the description this far it may be seen that the grain leather fillet 10 has been cut in accordance with the illustrated steps in the cutting operation preparatory to the formation of the completed welting of Fig. 7 and the fillet prepared for the folding operation illustrated in Fig. 6. Preparatory to the folding operation a suitable cement of the type ordinarily used in the manufacture of welting may and preferably will be applied to the contacting surfaces of the bead core 30, bead cover 32, inseam flange 34 and inseam cover flap 46. In practice the first step in the folding operation is to fold the bead cover 32 upwardly upon hinge 56 so that the bead core 30 is pressed against the cover with its base 58 firmly pressed upon inseam flange 34 adjacent the hinge 56. The bead forming member 50 is folded upwardly to a position substantially at right angles to the welt extension 28, and the inseam cover flap 46 is folded downwardly upon and cemented to the inseam flange 34 with its marginal edge 69 disposed flush with inseam flange marginal edge 62.

In order to maintain the grain leather fillet 10, which has been cut and folded in accordance with the present invention, in the position illustrated in Fig. 7 the folded welting may and preferably will be subjected to the usual molding operation utilized in welting manufacture during which the cemented surfaces thereof will harden firmly securing the elements of the welting together.

Referring now to Fig. 8, the present welting is embodied in the shoe with the inseam flange and surface of the inner bead 50 in a position against the shoe upper 7 with the upper being pressed against and conforming to the contour of inseam flange 34 and the inner face 74 of inner head 50. The latter is of greater width than the outer bead 82 of the double headed welting, offering substantial resistance to outward deflection when the shoe is worn, and is also extended above the inner sole 76 when incorporated in the shoe. The shoe insole 76 is provided with stitching flaps 78 through which the inseam stitching 80 may pass to secure the welt, upper and insole in operative position as shown. Thereafter the outsole (not shown) may be applied in any usual or preferred manner.

- A shoe provided with the present novel and improved bead core 30 and cover 32 comprising the bead 82 are formed integrally with said rugged bead 50 providing a rugged deflection resisting structure wherein the outer bead 82 serves the dual purpose of maintaining the rugged bead 50 in its upstanding position against the upper 70 and of adding to the decorative appearance of the shoe.

In accordance with the preferred form of the invention the entire exposed surface of the completed welting is of grain which may be highly polished with the exception of the pinked top 54 of the bead which is of flesh. In practice the pinked flesh top surface 54 may be dyed any color desired, thereby greatly enhancing the appearance of and style of the shoe.

While it is preferred ,to construct the novel welting shown in Figs. 7 and 8 of leather it is not desired to limit the invention thereto as the'welting may be of plastic and extruded into the shape illustrated.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

l. A shoe welting having a welt extension at its outer margin, an inseam flange at its inner margin and a double head between th'e welt extension andthe inseam flange, and upstanding from the inner portion of the upper surface of the welt extension, said double bead being in its entirety integral with the welt extension and inseam flange, the inner bead of said double bead being of greater width than the outer bead and extending above the same.

2. A shoe welting as defined in claim 1 wherein the outer bead contacts the outer edge of the inner head for a portion of the height of the latter.

3. A shoe welting as defined in claim 1 wherein the upper portion of the inner bead is rectangular in section and of a width equal to the thickness of the welt extension.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Gemrne Apr. 22, 1952 

